Mauser Serial Numbers K98

I own a rifle with the inscription Mauser Oberndorf a.N. The serial no. Is XXXX, caliber information not available. Download free software nexxsys training manual pdf. What model is this; when was it produced; what. Check for matching serial numbers on left side of receiver, top of bolt flat, barrel, top of safety, top of bolt sleeve, cocking piece, upper band, lower band, butt plate, rear sight leaf, rear sight guide and stock bottom, with last two digits of serial number on virtually all other components, right down to the firing pin and cleaning rod.

[what things should i look for in these guns, im more interested in a good shooter than a collectible, obviously markings are preffered still. How do you check for blueing, etc? ] Good bluing does not a 'shooter' make.;) Check that the bolt SN matches the receiver (many do not) - if not, headspace needs to be checked for safety's sake. (ask the shop if they would guarantee the headspace, in writing, should you buy 'it') Check the bore - many look like sewer pipes, but can clean up fairly good; many can't clean up well at all - it may still 'shoot', if the crown/rifling's good. Check that the stock is intact & uncracked, everywhere. THEN check for your druthers.:).

I wouldn't get a Mitchel's mauser. They completely destroy the history of the gun. You could probably tell by my name that I would be against Mitchel's but they completely redo the gun. I prefer to have the original finish, blueing, and dings. I also hear that Mitchel's mausers also force matches parts to the gun.

If it were my choice, I would rather spend $300-$400 for an original mauser than a lot more for something that shoots just as well and has the history removed. I just can't see why anyone would deface such a historic rifle:mad. Most of the K.98k's on the market today are Russian capture, now being sold off. They give the stocks a rough sanding, give the metal a quick dip blue/black, replace any bad parts, and ship them. The collector interest is limited, since most collectors want rifles as close to original as possible. RC guns usually have a Russian property mark that is supposed to be crossed M-N rifles, but usually looks like an 'X'. One approach is to look around at gun and pawn shops for bringbacks.

One of the results of the tragic dying of our WWII vets is that the rifles they brought back are turning up in local stores. The best advice I can give is that if there are gun shows in your area, look at as many rifles as you can.

Most dealers are honest and will tell you if the gun is a RC, or a bringback. Look for good bluing (not matte black) and for normal wear. Bolts should be blued, not bright.

Mauser

Stocks may be either solid wood or laminate, but should show the use, not abuse or excessive sanding. I will have to say that the gunshow dealers are not being truthful that guns are a RC. Some are flat out lieing, Some just may not know. Just had a gun show a few weeks ago and non matching RC mausers were found for $450 up to $750 and $1000 to $3250 for a all matching non import original mausers. A lot of dealers claimed all matching numbers on guns or non RC, but a quick glance showed otherwise or showed parts that where void of numbers completely (replacement parts).

You need to do your homework to avoid getting duped.:mad: In my opinion a matching number non import (bring back) mauser, whether it shoots or not, should not be treated as a shooter, the collector value of this rifle warrants a huge price and should be treated as a collectors item. It could fund your retirement one day.:eek: I ended up searching local stores and purchased a 1944 Russian Capture with a good bore and fair stock (non matching/electro penciled force match serials and import marks), and stamps for $299.

I had to go thru about 20 rifles before I could find an acceptable shooter. I have spent some money getting original parts to put back on the gun, (Site hood, Capture screws, 1940's Cleaning rod, 1939 strap,1943 bayonet, 1943 scabbard and 1942 frog). I believe after all is said and done I have about $700 invested. The stock is still in fair shape but does match the barrel serial number and looks like it might hold together, but even this could be force matched. Only time will tell.

It is looking like the quality of the left over RC imports have gone to the bottom of the rusty bucket and the availability of a decent rifle has all but dried up. If you do buy one and want to modify it (sporterize it), Please (for the love of God) keep your original parts marked and stored near the gun. Even if you think you will never resell it.